Journal
Stories from the house, the region, and the life made here.
Christmas in Viana - Cantares ao Menino and Minho's Consoada
December in Viana is intimate. Cantares ao Menino in parishes, Christmas market in Praça da República, boiled cod for the Eve dinner.
Read articleSt Martin's Day - chestnut roast, jeropiga, and the Roman soldier story
11 November. All over Minho, magusto. Roasted chestnuts, water-pé, jeropiga, and the legend of the soldier who shared his cloak.
Read articleAutumn in Minho - chestnuts, mushrooms and red leaves
October brings chestnut roasting, wild mushrooms and the first fireplaces. A slow weekend itinerary in Minho.
Read articleVindima - picking grapes, treading the press, tasting fresh must
In September, several Minho estates welcome guests during the harvest. Authentic rural experience for an unforgettable day.
Read articleSenhora da Agonia Festival - the heart of summer in Viana
Procession to the sea, mordomas in full regalia, fireworks over the Lima. Four days when the city belongs to the festival.
Read articleFive beaches between Viana and Caminha worth knowing
Long beaches, dunes, and the Atlantic 15 minutes away. Beach day suggestions without crowds.
Read articleSantos Populares - São João, São Pedro, and the year's warmest night
In June, all of Northern Portugal smells of sardines and basil. Guide to surviving Porto's São João and Viana's São Pedro.
Read articleThe Vinho Verde route - from Monção to Melgaço, three estates
Alvarinho is born an hour from the Villa. Three estates to visit, lunch overlooking the Minho river, and what to take home.
Read articleEaster in Viana - folar bread, the compasso, and the Senhor dos Passos procession
Easter in Viana is lived with rare intensity: night processions through granite streets, homemade folar bread, and the compasso entering each home.
Read articleThe garden wakes - first camellias and what's coming next
In March, the garden that names the house begins to bloom. Camellias first, then wisteria. A flower diary.
Read articleMinho Carnival - masks, caretos and a tradition older than Brazil
Forget samba and feathers. Minho's carnival has tin-masked caretos, village parades, and a pagan intensity that stays with you.
Read articleWinter in Viana - heated pool, fireplace and rain at the window
Minho in winter has its own colour. The pool stays at 28°C, the fireplace is always lit, and Viana feels like ours.
Read articleA morning on the Villa veranda
Before breakfast there's a moment when light falls on the garden and not a single car is heard.
Read articleWhy Viana rewards a slow stay
Viana can be visited in two hours - or two weeks. The difference is in how you walk it.
Read articleSanta Luzia at the end of the day
There are angles on Santa Luzia that show all of Viana - the city, river, sea, mountains. Funicular or foot up the stairway.
Read articleThe Viana market - Wednesdays and Fridays
Viana's most authentic market happens two mornings a week. Go with time - not to buy, to look.
Read articleLong afternoons by the pool
Nothing to do between three and six. That's exactly the point.
Read articleA rainy afternoon by the fire
When it rains in Viana - and it rains well - the fireplace room takes on new meaning.
Read articleVinho Verde - what to pair with each
There's a Vinho Verde for everything. Alvarinho with seafood rice, Loureiro with grilled sardines, sparkling for anything.
Read articleFig jam from our garden - recipe
Our garden fig tree gives more than we can eat in September. This is the simple jam recipe.
Read articleNorthern Portuguese cornbread - where to eat it
Yellow cornbread, dense, thick crust. With soup, cheese, ham, or alone.
Read articleThe Lima Valley cycle path
31 km of old railway turned cycle path, no climbs, along the river. Half a day. Train back.
Read articleSurfing at Cabedelo - for beginners
Cabedelo has waves regular enough to start surfing. Three schools, group beginner lessons.
Read articleThree days in Viana - a suggested route
Three nights: a day in town, a day beach or bike, a day for wine or for stopping.
Read articleCarolina and Marie - who we are
Two hosts, four languages, twenty years welcoming different people. A quick word about us.
Read articleBooks to read here - three suggestions
There's a shelf in the fireplace room. These three books are always there.
Read articleGetting from Porto Airport
60 km, 50 minutes via A28. Three options: rental, private transfer, or train via Campanhã.
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