The Viana market - Wednesdays and Fridays

There's the daily covered market with very fresh fish. But the real one is Wednesdays and Fridays - starts around seven, packs up by noon. Women from the hills with vegetables still earthy, cheese stalls, market sweets, producer honey, day-fresh eggs. Bring small change. Honest prices - a euro for fresh cabbages, fifty cents for a bunch of parsley. Not a tourist market, a neighbourhood one.