Easter in Viana - folar bread, the compasso, and the Senhor dos Passos procession

Holy Week is when Viana most shows itself as a Northern town. On Maundy Thursday, the Procession of the Burial of Christ leaves the cathedral and crosses the centre by torchlight. On Wednesday, the Senhor dos Passos procession is older still - from the 17th century, and some still walk the route on their knees.

At Easter, it's tradition to bake folar at home: a sweet bread with whole boiled eggs on top, symbol of the Resurrection. Carolina bakes one on Easter Friday and shares it with guests in the house - take a piece for the road.

The loveliest tradition is the Compasso: the priest and choirboys go from house to house with the cross and a basket, and each family opens their door for the blessing. In Santa Marta de Portuzelo, where we are, it still happens. If you stay with us, you might witness it - Carolina always opens the door.